An Unexpected Encounter with Oshima Tsumugi

Hajime Shoji was founded in 1982. With his grandfather overseeing production and his father traveling across the country to develop sales channels, the company served as a vital link between the weavers of Amami and kimono shops in major cities. Initially, it functioned as a wholesaler, focusing on promoting Oshima Tsumugi through department store events and regional product fairs.

While this path seemed secure, the next generation was not necessarily inclined to follow in the family's footsteps. For Hajime, who had entered a science university and was engrossed in film and music studies, kimonos felt like a distant world, and he never envisioned a future in the family business. However, a chance visit to a weaving workshop during a summer vacation in Amami became a major turning point.

There, he saw young apprentices weaving patterns with fresh, uninhibited ideas. Witnessing their efforts to explore contemporary expressions while honoring tradition, he began to see Oshima Tsumugi not as something 'old,' but as a 'new stage for creation.' This experience sparked his journey into the world of crafts, ultimately leading to his decision to take over the family business.

The Profound Depth of Oshima Tsumugi: The World's Most Intricate Textile

Oshima Tsumugi boasts a history so ancient that it appears in records of offerings from the Nara period (710-794). During the Meiji era (1868-1912), technological innovation advanced with the development of the shimebata (a tie-dyeing loom), establishing the intricate kasuri (ikat) patterns known today.

Its defining feature is the intricate patterns created through 'saki-zome kasuri' (pre-dyed ikat). By dyeing each thread individually and then weaving them together, tiny dots connect geometrically to form a detailed design. From a distance, the finished fabric may look like a solid color, but up close, an astonishingly delicate pattern emerges.

The process is broadly divided into three stages: 'shimebata,' where the design is transferred onto the threads; 'doro-zome' (mud dyeing), using natural dyes; and 'hata-ori' (weaving). Each stage is filled with tension, as a single mistake can ruin the entire piece. It takes nearly a year to complete a single roll of fabric.

Mud dyeing, in particular, is heavily dependent on natural conditions. The unique black color is produced when tannins from local plants react with the iron-rich mud. However, if it rains too much, the iron content in the mud becomes diluted, preventing the color from setting properly. Even the intensity of sunlight and humidity can affect the final color. By navigating these uncertain elements, artisans have nurtured this fabric in harmony with nature.

'Amami-fu': A Fabric Born from Innovation

While inheriting tradition, the quest to create a new fabric has been a constant pursuit. The symbol of this endeavor is 'Amami-fu.'

This is a recycled fabric created by finely shredding discarded silk kimonos and weaving them into the warp threads of Oshima Tsumugi. While traditional sakiori (rag weaving) is typically thick and textured, Amami-fu uses fabric strips just five millimeters wide, resulting in a surprisingly thin and light finish. It possesses a delicacy different from familiar rag weaving, with a soft and supple texture.

Having been created only a little over a decade ago, Amami-fu has not yet reached the status of a traditional craft. However, it is infused with the aspiration to 'nurture it into a fabric that will be recognized as a traditional craft 100 years from now.' It is moving forward as an endeavor to build the traditions of the future.

Expanding Possibilities Through Cross-Industry Collaborations

The artistry of Amami-fu and Oshima-tsumugi is breaking free from the traditional world of kimonos and finding new life in a diverse range of fields. Furniture makers are commissioning the textiles for sofa upholstery and rugs, while hotels are exploring their use for wallpaper and interior design. Even sports teams are getting involved, with a collaboration to upcycle old uniforms into new merchandise using the *sakiori* rag-weaving technique.

Then, in 2022, Oshima-tsumugi captured the world's attention when it was chosen by Italy's Ferrari to create a one-of-a-kind custom seat material. It was a landmark moment, fusing a traditional Japanese craft with cutting-edge international design, powerfully demonstrating the textile's immense potential.

These partnerships go far beyond simply supplying fabric. To meet a client's specific needs, everything from the warp threads to the dyes must be adjusted from the ground up, requiring extensive prototyping. By weaving entirely new materials using traditional looms and artisanal skills, a completely new type of textile is born.

This spirit of innovation is underpinned by the philosophy, "What we must preserve are the techniques and tools, not the form itself." By viewing tradition not as something static but as a living entity, the artisans can continuously adapt to meet the diverse demands of today.

The Successor Shortage and a Vision for the Future

However, looking at the industry as a whole, the challenges are piling up. A long-standing shortage of successors makes it extremely difficult to attract and retain a younger generation of artisans. The number of specialized craftspeople who support the division of labor is dwindling, casting a shadow over the future of these skills. Furthermore, the industry's reliance on urban wholesalers for sales channels makes it difficult for the region to achieve self-sufficiency.

In response, a new vision is emerging: to become a "Made in Amami Textile Manufacturer." The goal is to pivot toward creating new fabrics, including Amami-fu, and to establish Oshima-tsumugi as a global brand from Amami, promoting it both at home and abroad. A core part of this mission is to cultivate new artisans and ensure these precious techniques are passed down to the next generation.

"Oshima-tsumugi is the very foundation of our craft. This framework is what gives us the freedom to take on new challenges. What we must protect isn't the form, but the techniques and the environment that sustains them."

These words carry the weight of 1,300 years of history, reflecting a firm resolve to forge a new future.