Aizu Cotton: Born from a Rugged Climate

Tell us about Aizu cotton.

Aizu cotton is a traditional cotton textile that has been woven in the Aizu region of Fukushima Prefecture since the Edo period.

The Aizu basin climate brings severe heat in the summer and snowy, freezing winters. Adapted to such an environment, Aizu cotton feels smooth and cool in summer, yet retains warmth and keeps heat from escaping in the winter.

Originally loved as workwear for agriculture, this fabric is extremely durable and perfectly suited for daily use. The warp threads are heavily starched, so they initially feel stiff, but the more they are used, the softer they become, eventually taking on a buttery texture. It is a textile infused with the wisdom of generations, deeply rooted in daily life.

The simple yet beautiful striped patterns are also impressive.

The striped designs of Aizu cotton trace back to the Edo period "Ji-jima" patterns unique to each village. The thickness and color scheme of the stripes differ by region, making them like local "uniforms" symbolic of their respective areas.

HARAPPA Co., Ltd.'s "HARAPPA" brand produces about 120 varieties of Aizu cotton, including both traditional patterns and new designs. Each stripe design—even such as "Katsuo-jima" and "Hade-jima"—is individually named, which is another distinctive trait.

It takes even three days just to prepare for weaving a single stripe design. The most crucial step is a process known as "Seikei" (warping). To create the stripes, the order and width of the colors must be determined precisely according to a recipe, and the warp threads are strung one by one in sequence. The combination with weft threads is also carefully adjusted, and the stripes are formed thoughtfully and without compromise.

Rich Texture Birthed by Craftsmen & Looms

Aizu cotton has a unique character. Can you describe the process?

It all starts with dyeing the cotton threads used as the raw material. At HARAPPA, they use a traditional technique called "Kase-zome" (skein dyeing), dyeing each thread thoroughly for fade-resistant and sturdy results.

Afterwards, the threads are heavily starched. Starch is essential in weaving to protect the threads, but notable for Aizu cotton is the extra-strong starching. This gives freshly woven fabric a crisp feel at first, but as you use it, the starch gradually washes away, transforming the fabric into a soft, skin-fitting texture over time.

Once starched, the next step is "Seikei," where warp and weft threads are prepared for weaving. Lining up the warp threads one by one according to each pattern's recipe is the “heart” of the fabric’s beauty. Even threading the loom is done entirely by hand; if the order is even slightly off, the entire piece is ruined. This delicate process demands a craftsperson’s unwavering focus and skillful hands.

Once the preparations are complete, weaving begins on a "shuttle loom." The weft thread, wound onto the shuttle, passes back and forth between the warp threads, and gradually, the fabric takes shape.

This process, woven slowly at a steady rhythm reminiscent of "gachan, gachan," is much slower compared to modern machines. However, it's precisely thanks to this careful pacing that the threads aren't stretched unnaturally, resulting in the uniquely dense, durable, and fluffy texture found in Aizu cotton fabrics.

It's clear that every step in the process is guided by skilled hands. Even the looms lined up in the factory show years of use, reflecting a deep history and connection with the artisans.

The shuttle looms used at Harayama Textile Factory were manufactured over a century ago. During the war, these looms were once collected by the government as resources for arms production due to metal collection orders. After the war, the influx of inexpensive foreign fabric caused many textile factories to close, but at Harayama Textile Factory, they managed to buy back their looms and resumed operations as an Aizu cotton weaving workshop. Even today, these vintage looms continue to run, cherished by the artisans who use them with affection, treating them as reliable partners.

A Flexible Approach to Inheritance, Walking with the Times

Please tell us how Harayama Textile Factory transitioned into HARAPPA Co., Ltd.

The sudden passing of the previous owner put the factory’s future in jeopardy. It was at that moment that Nana Yamasaki, representative of the apparel brand "YAMMA SANGYO" and current president of Harappa, rose to the occasion, motivated by a strong desire to keep Aizu cotton alive.

Having created clothing mainly with Aizu cotton, Yamasaki partnered with Taisei Ono—the previous president’s cousin—and together succeeded the business as co-representatives, officially inheriting Harayama Textile Factory. With the support of many who are passionate about textiles, they've managed both to revive and carry on the tradition of Aizu cotton.

Today, Aizu cotton is being sold not only in Tokyo’s Kagurazaka, but also in New York. People—even abroad—who appreciate the unique qualities of this fabric have become loyal fans, with repeat customers both in Japan and overseas.

Aizu cotton is truly going global. What about Yamasaki’s philosophy inspired you to join the company?

My first encounter with Harappa was through an article in the specialist paper "繊研新聞" (Senken Shimbun), which highlighted the succession of Aizu cotton under Yamasaki. What resonated with me deeply was the idea that "tradition isn’t something to preserve for its own sake, but something to keep alive as a livelihood."

I was drawn to their approach of passing down tradition in a form suited to our times. I was especially impressed by their ability to remain flexible and creative, breaking free from fixed ideas. After meeting Yamasaki in person, I was convinced that I wanted to work alongside her—and that’s how I came to join the team.

I was surprised to see so many young staff members at the factory. Lastly, could you share what goals you’d like to pursue moving forward?

As you’ve noted, our young staff are active and work hard every day to carry the Aizu cotton tradition forward. Since the machines we use are no longer manufactured, maintaining and operating them into the future is a key challenge for us.

At present, we use threads made from imported cotton. However, our long-term dream is to spin thread from cotton grown right here in Fukushima Prefecture, dye it with natural pigments, and create an "all-Fukushima-grown Aizu cotton."