The Sound of Looms, Echoing Through Johana for 148 Years

The story of Matsui Kigyo began when its founder, Bunjirō Matsui, first set up his looms in this town. Each successive generation has adapted to the changing times, passing the baton to the next.

However, the journey was far from easy. The company endured trying times when the demand for silk plummeted, forcing many weavers to close their doors. So, what allowed Matsui Kigyo to persevere with its conviction to "never let the looms fall silent"? Sixth-generation owner Noriko describes the driving force in one word: "a sense of crisis."

"If the looms stop, so do the artisans' skills, our culture, and our town's pride. If we had simply quit when silk stopped selling, everything we've spent hundreds of years weaving would have come to an end. That sense of crisis was immense."

It was this powerful conviction that drove them to pioneer new applications, such as "shike-kinu-gami" (Shike silk paper) for wallpaper and other interior design materials, ensuring the sound of their looms would echo into the next generation.

Surprisingly, Noriko once had a negative view of the family business, dismissing it as a "declining industry" and "something old-fashioned." Her perspective did a complete 180 in the autumn of 2009 during a business visit with her father. He and the client's president suddenly dove into a passionate conversation about silkworms. What she heard revealed a profound world of silk she never knew existed.

She learned that silkworms are counted with the respectful Japanese counters "ittō, nitō," a sign of reverence. She discovered that the amino acid structure of silk thread is remarkably similar to human skin and is even used for absorbable surgical sutures. She also found out that it absorbs odors and has excellent moisture-regulating properties.

The moment she realized this was far from a declining industry but rather a material with limitless potential, "the world in front of me began to sparkle, and for the first time, I genuinely wanted to be involved," Noriko recalls.

Her newfound passion quickly turned into action. During the New Year's holiday back home, she told her father, "I want to come back." And so, armed with a fresh appreciation for the potential of silk she had discovered on her own, her journey began.

The Accidental Beauty of "Shike-kinu," Spun by Two Silkworms

"Shike-kinu" silk is the very soul of Matsui Kigyo. This one-of-a-kind silk fabric is woven from an exceptionally rare thread, created when two silkworms team up to spin a single cocoon. The resulting thread is naturally uneven in thickness, with little knots along its length. When woven, it creates a unique texture with a natural, mottled appearance and an organic shimmer.

Today, only two workshops in all of Japan are said to possess the skills to weave this special silk.

"By weaving together threads of varying thicknesses, we create a fabric with a naturally expressive character. Intentionally controlling this randomness is incredibly challenging and demands the touch of a master artisan."

The process is incredibly delicate, requiring precise loom adjustments and thread tension management to preserve the fabric's unique texture. They strategically switch between different looms to maximize the material's potential: shuttle looms are perfect for capturing the organic irregularities of shike-kinu, while dobby looms are used for more complex and intricately designed textiles.

A product that truly crystallizes Matsui Kigyo's expertise is their "shike-kinu-shi," a material made by bonding shike-kinu silk with traditional washi paper. Of all the steps involved—scouring, dyeing, and laminating—Noriko says the lamination process is by far the most challenging.

"You have to layer two completely different materials, silk and washi paper, beautifully and evenly," she explains. "The paper subtly expands and contracts with changes in humidity and temperature, so our artisans still rely on their intuition, laminating each sheet by hand."

They even take meticulous care in selecting an adhesive that won't compromise the texture. This commitment to uncompromising quality is supported by their integrated production system, which handles every step in-house—from thread reeling and weaving to scouring and dyeing. This control allows them to maintain consistent quality and meet the specific needs of their clients. At the same time, they constantly face challenges like equipment investment and the crucial task of passing down their craft to the next generation.

"It's because we handle everything in-house that we can create without compromise. We believe in the value of that, and it's what keeps us going."

Her words resonate with the deep pride of a true artisan.

From Tradition to Innovation: A Challenge to Unlock Silk's Potential

Johana silk, once famous as a luxury textile for kimonos, has transformed its value in the modern era, now seen as an "artistic material." Its unique design and texture are being rediscovered and celebrated by trend-setting architects and designers, both in Japan and internationally.

Matsui Kigyo has skillfully tapped into this trend, building their business around two core pillars: interior design (wallpaper, lighting, blinds) and fashion. While these fields may seem distinct, there's a clear strategy and synergy at play.

"Silk's texture offers a rich experience, whether it's enhancing a space or worn on the body. The big advantage is that we can cross-pollinate the knowledge we gain from both the interior design and fashion worlds."

A prime example of this synergy is their in-house brand, JOHANAS. The brand leverages the natural feel and breathability of shike-kin silk to venture into the beauty and self-care market. This move was partly inspired by Noriko's personal experience.

"I used to suffer from severe menstrual irregularities, but they improved thanks to silk, which made me focus on its health benefits. Based on the idea that beauty comes from within, we want to propose new value through products that support women in their daily lives."

Weaving the Future with Shike-kinu: The Region's Challenges and Dreams Beyond

Like many traditional industries, Matsui Kigyo is facing serious challenges, including a shortage of successors and difficulties in sourcing raw materials.

"The supply of high-quality, domestically produced silk thread is dwindling, making a stable supply chain a real challenge," Noriko says with a sense of urgency. "On top of that, the number of artisans who can operate the looms is declining every year, making the transmission of our skills a pressing issue."

But she isn't one to stand idly by. She collaborates with local producers and universities, and she empowers her younger staff by giving them the freedom to experiment with new prototypes. Her focus isn't just on passing down techniques, but also on nurturing a "creative sensibility."

The future she envisions is both grand in scale and heartwarming.

First, she dreams of creating an all-silk inn—a place where guests can immerse themselves in the material, with everything from the wallpaper and lighting to the pajamas and bedsheets made of silk. Her second dream is to have every resident of Toyama Prefecture raise three silkworms each.

She has also taken on the management of the former Johana Textile Cooperative office building, a designated cultural property. Her plan is to transform it into an experiential hub where locals and tourists alike can come together and connect with the craft.

A Single Thread Connecting People, Nature, the Past, and the Future

So, what does Shike silk mean to Noriko? When I asked her this at the end of our conversation, she paused to think before answering.

"I see it as a material that connects people to each other, nature to people, and the past to the future... The silk, born from the miraculous encounter of two silkworms, possesses a unique power. It's become an indispensable and vital part of my life."

This isn't just about preserving tradition. It's about "weaving the future with Shike silk." True to her words, she believes in silk's potential to address social issues like environmental sustainability, personal well-being, and contributing to the local economy. She even says that the life cycle of the silkworm serves as her ultimate inspiration.

Today, the sound of the loom once again echoes through Johana. It's a powerful yet gentle melody, weaving a 148-year-old tradition into the fabric of the future. A single thread, connecting people, nature, the past, and the future, continues to spin a new story.