The Chita Peninsula extends south of Nagoya, where gentle sunlight bathes the hilly terrain, making it a region known for the cultivation of mandarins and other crops. In the northwestern part of the peninsula, along the coast facing Ise Bay, lies the Okada area, which was once the center of the Chita cotton textile industry.

“Between the Showa years 30 and 50, nearly 700 shops were members of the Chita Textile Union. Approximately 10,000 people were engaged in the cotton industry. At that time, the population was lower than it is now, so it was quite likely that their neighbors worked in textiles as well."

So says Ryo Takeuchi, the president of Takeuchi Hiroshi Shoten, which has been operating as a fabric wholesaler in the area. He has witnessed Okada through three generations, thanks to his grandfather, the late Hiroshi, who founded the company.

“As we moved into the latter half of the Showa era, union membership drastically decreased, and by the beginning of the Heisei era, it had fallen below one third. Now, there are only about ten shops left.”

The roads of Okada are narrow. On either side of the small path stand storehouses and blackboard fences from the Edo to Meiji eras, reflecting the remnants of the once prosperous area. Just where this small path opens up to the prefectural road is the antenna shop for Chita cotton operated by Takeuchi Hiroshi Shoten, called “Chita Cotton 478.”

There Was No Place to Learn About Chita cotton

Takeuchi Hiroshi Shoten has been rooted in the community, supplying fabrics to dyeing shops since 1953.

“It’s a job connecting fabric shops and dyeing shops to supply products for items like Hanten and Noren. The nature of our business hasn’t changed much since then.”

As the coordinator linking fabrics and dyeing Ryo initially worked at a dyeing shop handling his family's fabric for about two and a half years, learning about the dyeing process and how issues arise before taking over the family business.

“I was told to continue the family business about half the time. I wasn’t told never to, nor was I strongly urged to do so. However, I had always had it in the back of my mind since I was little that I would carry it on, so I didn’t resist or push back much.”

Until his father, Kazuyuki’s generation, the business was solely B2B, but in Ryo’s generation, 2019, the aforementioned antenna shop was opened, establishing a connection with general consumers.

“I want more people to know about Chita cotton, yet there was no place for them to learn about it. Initially, I didn’t have a strong attachment to Chita cotton. When I started in this profession, I only recognized it as part of the fabrics produced by nearby fabric houses. I had no idea it had a long history and was a product referred to as Chita cotton; it was only through my experiences and connections through work that I realized it was originally a remarkable production area.”

For instance, Sakichi Toyoda, the founder of the Toyota Group, invented Japan's first power loom during the Meiji era and laid the foundation for companies like Toyota Motor Corporation; there is speculation that he conducted loom research in Okada. Additionally, cotton textiles were once a major export from Japan.

“Looking at the current situation, the production of Chita cotton has dropped to about 2–3% of its peak. However, because Chita was a cotton textile production area, our business began here, so I thought there must be something we could do for Chita cotton as a root, and that’s why I created the antenna shop.”

Filling the Gaps Created by Progressing Times

Once upon a time, the Chita region thrived in the cotton textile industry. Cotton was even more closely intertwined with daily life than it is today. However, as times changed, lifestyle patterns shifted significantly. When attempting to handle Chita cotton while still keeping the former social structure in mind, the market inevitably becomes limited.

"For instance, if I think about running a campaign to encourage people today to wear yukata, sure, it might sell a little, but not significantly. This is because for men, there are almost zero opportunities to wear yukata in a year. For women, especially younger ones, it might only be once or twice a year. And that’s usually just during fireworks festivals or traditional events. Before disposable diapers, Sarashi (a type of cotton fabric) was used as diapers, but if I were to propose using Sarashi as diapers today, not everyone would go along with it. No matter how good the cotton is, if we don't adapt and recreate it to fit today's convenient lifestyle, it won't spread."

To integrate Chita cotton into the modern age, the original brand "WATAKUMI" was created to leverage the characteristics of Chita cotton. They first introduced a white cotton shirt as a product.

"The shirt itself is made from yukata fabric. Chita cotton has a long history as a source for yukata and tenugui (hand towels), producing white cotton continuously. I thought it was essential to create a product that aligns with that history. However, simply making traditional yukata from yukata fabric wouldn’t serve a purpose, so I aimed to develop a white shirt that anyone could wear regularly. That was the initial product development."

When I picked up the white shirt, there was a pleasantly surprising difference. The actual fabric was much softer and fluffier than the cotton I remembered.

"You can find mass-produced, no-iron shirts sold at discount stores. In fact, I also buy and use them (laughs), but it's simply unrealistic to think you can make those from 100% cotton and call them no-iron. In essence, they undergo additional processing to make them no-iron. When you try to add functionality through mass production, the original texture and wearing comfort that used to be commonplace inevitably changes."

Next to the shirts, there were also Boston bags made of canvas and Sashiko (a form of Japanese stitching). The texture of the cotton on the surface of the bag was beautiful.

"I didn't conduct any prior market research; I just created items that I could wear and use. The white shirt was intended for men, and honestly, I made it so that I could wear it. However, the first to purchase it was a woman. Currently, the gender ratio of buyers is about even."

On WATAKUMI's brand page, there's a profile of Ryo proudly dubbed "Cotton Sommelier." "Oh, that came about because, when we were launching the brand, we wanted to create a catchy term and since we handle over a hundred types of fabrics, someone who helped with the launch named me Cotton Sommelier. It’s not like there’s a national certification or anything! (laughs)"

Aiming as a Textile Wholesaler

Ryo's aim is to return the currently imported fabrics to domestic production.

"The shift to imports happened because they are cheaper. Of course, low cost isn't solely a negative, but some imported fabrics have poor dyeing capabilities, leading to challenges when the production sources are far overseas. I want to handle fabrics that dye smoothly and without stress for the dyers, and ideally, return those fabrics to domestic production."

Is it possible to reconsider materials from overseas back to Japan?

"The weaving factories can weave, so it just depends on our stamina! (laughs). If we try to operate domestically, prices rise by about 20-30%, so even if the quality is exceptional, I don't know if that price will be accepted. The industry has diminished from around 700 firms at its peak to about 10, but those remaining are pushing themselves to study advanced techniques and have unique strengths."

For Ryo, what is the fulfillment of being a textile wholesaler? The answer he shared was thoroughly professional.

"It’s when the fabrics I supplied dye beautifully, and there are no complaints. The happiest times are when things are running smoothly. Since cotton is a natural material, even with exceptional skills from dyers, it’s very challenging to dye multiple pieces in the intended colors and designs. That's why when I don't receive any communication, it means everything dyed beautifully this time, and I don’t even need to hear that. Just having them reorder as a matter of course is the happiest moment for me."

Quietly and steadily responding to customer demands. Indeed, Takeuchi Hiroshi Shoten is one of those stores that has survived through the ages.