The history of Arimatsu Shibori is a series of "decisions to survive." From the frontier spirit of the Edo period to modern co-creations with global fashion brands, this article traces the footsteps of those who shaped its legacy.

Join us as we explore the dramatic turning points across its 400-year history and uncover the stories that drove them forward, through the lens of our editorial team.

Settlement: The Bold Decision Not to Farm, Born from Highway Security

The history of Arimatsu Shibori began in 1608 by order of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo shogunate. The Owari Domain commanded the construction of a new town to maintain public order in a desolate area along the Tokaido highway, situated between Narumi-juku and Chiryu-juku. This marked the founding of present-day Arimatsu in Midori Ward, Nagoya City.

However, the newly settled land was hilly and completely unsuitable for agriculture like rice farming. Unable to make a living from farming, the residents were forced to create an industry targeting travelers passing along the highway to survive.

What stands out as particularly fascinating is that this "desperate geographical condition" was the single greatest factor behind the birth of the extraordinary craft of Arimatsu Shibori. Giving up on farming, the people of Arimatsu chose to tailor their craft to the Tokaido—the premier logistics and travel hub of the era. It is fair to say that without this decisive pivot, Arimatsu Shibori would not exist today.

Early Edo Period: Takeda Shokuro and an Encounter with a Distant Culture

Takeda Shokuro, revered as the founder of Arimatsu Shibori, originally hailed from Chita. Around 1610, he reportedly observed laborers from Bungo Province in Kyushu, mobilized for the construction of Nagoya Castle, wearing unfamiliar tie-dyed garments.

Recognizing immense potential in this technique, Shokuro conceived the idea of applying tie-dyeing to locally produced Mikawa cotton to craft hand towels (tenugui) and light summer kimonos (yukata). This is considered the origin of Arimatsu Narumi Shibori. Shokuro's true achievement lay not merely in adopting the technique, but in connecting local materials with the needs of highway travelers, creating a highly marketable souvenir product.

Later, under the second generation of Shokuro, sophisticated color palettes such as safflower red (beni) and purple dyes were developed alongside traditional indigo, elevating the craft's prestige as gift items. That pioneering spirit remains alive in Arimatsu today.

Mid-to-Late Edo Period: Owari Domain's Patronage and Establishing an Edo-Era Brand

In 1781, Arimatsu Shibori gained major historical backing when the Owari Domain granted Arimatsu's shibori merchants exclusive sales rights for tie-dyed products. This strictly limited imitations by other regions, cementing Arimatsu's position as the sole tie-dye production hub along the Tokaido highway.

Under this monopoly, Arimatsu Shibori exploded in popularity among Edo-period celebrities. Jippensha Ikku's humorous novel "東海道中膝栗毛" vividly depicts the protagonist Yajirobei purchasing an Arimatsu Shibori hand towel.

Furthermore, ukiyo-e prints by Katsushika Hokusai and Utagawa Hiroshige frequently showcased the scenic streetscapes of Arimatsu and its tie-dye shops. For people of the Edo period, wearing an Arimatsu Shibori yukata while strolling along the Tokaido was a status symbol—the equivalent of stepping out today in a coveted designer brand.

From the Meiji Era to Postwar: The Invention of Arashi Shibori and the "Cloth of Hope" That Traveled to Africa

During the Meiji period, when the monopoly rights granted in the Edo period came to an end, Arimatsu faced a new hurdle: free competition. In response, an artisan named Kinzo Suzuki invented a revolutionary technique called "Arashi Shibori" in 1879. This technique utilized logs to dye large quantities of fabric at once, dramatically boosting production efficiency and helping sustain the industrial scale of Arimatsu Shibori.

An even more astonishing chapter in its history occurred around 1948, during the postwar reconstruction era. With domestic demand slumping, the people of Arimatsu carved out a bold breakthrough by exporting to African nations. The vibrant, bold-patterned shibori products tailored to local tastes generated immense demand, marking the first step toward recovery that brought vitality back to the town. Discovering this fact was a fresh revelation for our editorial team, and we felt it perfectly symbolizes Arimatsu's astonishing capacity for adaptability.

1980s to Present: A Quiet Revolution from "Yukata" to "High Fashion"

The single greatest turning point leading to the present day was the DC brand boom of the 1980s. At the time, the generation leading the production area felt a growing sense of crisis regarding the traditional framework of yukata and kimono. As Japanese clothing culture increasingly shifted toward Western attire, they made the pivotal decision to adapt shibori techniques to modern apparel.

During this era, Arimatsu artisans began receiving commissions from top designers both in Japan and abroad. They expanded their materials—originally narrow-width cotton fabrics of about 38 cm per bolt—to wide-format textiles over 120 cm suited for Western clothing, as well as silk and even leather.

During our interviews, a production coordinator told us, "Arimatsu Shibori has a history of constantly reinventing itself to create something new"—a phrase that truly encapsulates this turning point. In recent years, requests emphasizing the backstory of creation have also come in from overseas luxury brands. Rather than merely preserving tradition, this commitment to continuously updating shibori into garments that thrive in the present is the true essence that has sustained its 400-year legacy.

Tradition Is Not Preserving Form, but Evolving Without Losing "Aesthetics"

Looking back on the history of Arimatsu Shibori, one constantly sees artisans acting as "innovators unafraid of change." From the original settlement commissioned by the Owari Domain to exports to Africa and co-creations with modern high-fashion brands, its journey is one of continually reweaving their techniques in response to the demands of each era.

Tradition is not stubbornly sticking to a single form; it is about keeping the core aesthetics intact while flexibly transforming in response to the winds of time. A craft born among the dusty roads of the Tokaido highway now graces global runways—a fact that fills us with immense inspiration.

The word "pioneering" mentioned at the beginning feels as though it has been reinterpreted in modern times to mean "the creation of new value." When you hold a piece of shibori fabric, take a moment to sense the deep history flowing behind it and the passion of the people who embraced change without hesitation.