A 'Victory Color' Loved by Samurai, Born from Northern Saitama's Nature

When we arrived at the workshop, located in a quiet residential neighborhood, the dyeing process was in full swing. A crisp, refreshing aroma, reminiscent of fermented plants—the signature scent of indigo—filled the air.

The process is meticulous. Fabric is soaked in a dye bath fermented from indigo, allowed to sit, then pulled out and squeezed. By drying it in the sun, the dye oxidizes and the color sets. Once dry, it's washed. This cycle is repeated over and over, dyeing the fabric to its core with a deep, stunning shade of indigo.

"With plant-based dyes, you typically boil them to color the fabric. But indigo dyeing is a low-temperature process, so we set the color by dyeing it repeatedly. It's all done by hand. We're constantly bending over and standing up, so it's physically demanding."

Bushu Shoaizome is a traditional craft born in the Tone River basin of northern Saitama Prefecture. It began around the Edo period, when farmers' wives used the indigo plants growing wild along the river to make clothing called 'Bushu kon-ori' during the agricultural off-season.

The well water in this region is rich in iron, which acts as a catalyst, resulting in a deep, purplish indigo. This color was called kachi-iro (victory color) by samurai and has been beloved for kendo uniforms ever since.

"There are various theories, but Kazo once had a castle called Kisai Castle and prospered as a castle town, so it seems there was a bustling market for dyed goods. It's said that during its peak in the Meiji period, there were as many as 200 indigo dyers here."

Eiichi Shibusawa, born in Fukaya in northern Saitama and known as the 'father of modern Japanese economy,' also has a connection to Bushu Shoaizome. He demonstrated his business acumen by assisting in the trade of ai-dama—balls of dried and fermented indigo leaves (sukumo) used for the dye.

A Decision to Change with the Times

There are two main dyeing methods: ito-zome (yarn dyeing), where the thread is dyed before weaving, and ato-zome (piece dyeing), where the finished fabric is dyed. About 70% of Bushu Shoaizome is yarn-dyed. Originally, Ishiori Shoten was a factory that dyed yarn, wove it on looms, and produced beautiful, striped bolts of Bushu Shoaizome fabric.

"The factory had dozens of looms operated by women. From as early as I can remember, I grew up listening to the clatter—gashan, gashan—of the shuttles flying back and forth."

His craftsman-like predecessor never told him to 'take over the family business.' But with the thought that he might one day, Ishizuka went to a fashion vocational school. After graduating, he landed a job at a company that manufactured wedding dresses.

"As a salesman, I traveled to wedding halls all over the country selling dresses. I'd load up my sedan with countless wedding dresses and drive thousands of kilometers across Japan on business trips."

Later, Ishizuka became an instructor at a fashion vocational school, teaching fashion business. He decided to take over the family business at the age of 30. By that time, demand had fallen, and Ishiori Shoten's factory was in a tough spot.

"I wanted to protect the inherited tradition of Bushu Shoaizome. I knew I had to do something to save the factory."

While he was searching for new sales channels after taking over the business, the previous owner passed away just six months later. To protect Bushu Shoaizome, Ishizuka made the drastic decision to change the business model his predecessor had built.

"In this day and age, we need to make things, connect with customers, and sell directly to them. I decided to shift the business from dyeing yarn and weaving fabric bolts to making indigo-dyed clothing."

He closed the factory and moved the workshop to a corner of his newly built home. Working alone, Ishizuka handled the dyeing process and began making clothes, creating the Ishiori Shoten we see today.

An Artisan's Passion vs. Customer Demand: A Slight Mismatch

After deciding to make clothes, she spent her days trying to figure out how to sell them. She created a website and began searching for sales channels through trial and error. By setting up a stall at a flea market, she connected with a company that plans department store events, and through that relationship, her sales opportunities gradually expanded.

However, it wasn't that simple. The products weren't selling at all. When asked why, Ishizuka says, "I just didn't get what consumers were looking for."

"Out of a creator's pride, I was offering deep-colored products that were quintessentially *aizome* (indigo-dyed). But that wasn't necessarily what the customers wanted. There was a disconnect."

She had this realization at an event held at the now-closed Tokyu Department Store in Shibuya. Lacking the time to produce more items, she displayed some light blue (*asagi-iro*) products that had undergone fewer dyeing cycles. These items sold out in a flash, setting a new sales record.

"From that point on, I started designing products with specific age groups and needs in mind. For our older customers, this meant items that were easy-to-wear with a front opening or styles that didn't cling to the body. Moreover, indigo-dyed clothing originally served as spring and summer wear for farmers. We also tailor our products and dyeing methods to the seasons when people are most drawn to wearing indigo, such as Golden Week and the summer holidays."

Gradually, Ishiori Shoten began to attract a base of regular customers. Some even come to their exhibitions wearing the store's clothing.

"When you wear an indigo-dyed garment for a long time, the color fades and develops an exquisite texture. An indigo piece someone bought 10 years ago has aged into something truly beautiful."

With the hope that customers will love their items for years to come, Ishiori Shoten also offers a free re-dyeing service.

"Indigo also acts as a coating, so even worn-out fabric can be beautifully restored to look like new when re-dyed. In the old days, people would re-dye their faded farm clothes and continue wearing them. Indigo dyeing is a sustainable practice born from the Japanese culture of cherishing one's belongings."

Continuing the Challenge to Preserve the Legacy of Indigo Dyeing

In recent years, Ishiori Shoten has been tackling the challenge of creating products for a younger demographic. They are developing items for the next generation, who may not yet be familiar with indigo-dyed goods.

"Indigo is Japan's signature color. At events, it always grabs people's attention, with many exclaiming, \"What a beautiful color!\" It's not too flashy, but deep and rich. I want to share the appeal of indigo, so beloved by the Japanese people, with a wider audience."

One such initiative is a collaboration with 'KARMA et CARINA,' a fashion brand also founded in Saitama. Aiming to elevate a traditional craft into the realm of luxury, they launched a collection of indigo-dyed products, including dresses, fashion accessories, and stoles.

"It was thrilling to create new products from scratch with a designer. We focused on timeless designs that could be enjoyed for years and finished them with a lighter dye perfect for summer."

The project with KARMA et CARINA was recognized as a "共創チャレンジ" (Co-creation Challenge) under the Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, Japan's 'TEAM EXPO 2025' program and was featured in the Future Life Experience & 'TEAM EXPO Pavilion' exhibition.

"I want to try new things that nobody has done before," says Ishizuka. He also has plans to produce indigo-dyed sandals through a corporate collaboration. Amidst all these new ventures, what does he hold most dear?

"We will preserve the indigo dyeing techniques we've inherited. But if there's no demand, our sales methods and the items we offer must evolve with the times. The one thing that will never change is dyeing with indigo. That is the legacy we are here to protect."

It is this unwavering core of indigo dyeing that makes new challenges possible. As he dyes with indigo in his workshop, Ishizuka continues to keep his eyes on the wider world, aiming to exhibit at gift shows for overseas expansion and develop an indigo-dyed brand for men.