The Irregular Charm Born from Handwork

Tell us about your business and its beginnings.

My grandfather, Kaichiro Kusunoki, founded the workshop that manufactures and sells Tango Chirimen textiles, a local industry for kimono weaving that dates back roughly 300 years, as "Kuska Textiles" in 1936. Before I was born, the textile industry was still growing steadily. After leaving my hometown in junior high, I stayed in Tokyo post-high school, working in construction before I returned to Tango just shy of 30. On my visit, facing a family business on the brink of closure, I realized I had to do something to prevent the decay of the Tango region, where I was born and raised, and decided to take over. I returned in 2008, learned from specialized books and training, and started our own brand in 2010.

I questioned the mass production and consumption that characterized mechanical manufacturing, shifting our manufacturing direction to craftsmanship of unique, one-of-a-kind creations. To develop our own handwoven products, I personally built handweaving looms. My previous work in construction provided manufacturing know-how. I combined antique wooden hand weaving parts from nearby areas with jacquard weaving machines to assemble hybrid hand weaving looms myself, discarding all mass production-oriented machines from our own factory.
Furthermore, we streamlined the traditional kimono distribution to Kyoto wholesalers, opting for direct sales and branding of Tango Chirimen, which is often perceived as a subcontractor.

Having gleaned market insights from working in Tokyo, I found that you can't turn a good product into a business without recognition. My Tokyo experience aids manufacturing with market consciousness.

The fashion industry is often seen as a symbol of mass production and consumption. What are your thoughts?

Since we aren't a large corporation, when considering generating our own originality that mass production can’t offer, I decided to focus on the beauty created by handwork, producing one-of-a-kind items. Seeing the intricate handwoven art at Living National Treasure Takeshi Kitamura's solo exhibition mesmerized me with the beauty that handwork yielded. While machine-woven Tango Chirimen is characterized by uniformity, enabling mass production of 2D textiles, handwoven Tango Chirimen incorporates air for a three-dimensional weave, resulting in irregularities. Unlike machine-woven textiles, these uncontrollable, accidental textures yield a three-dimensional fabric, creating expressions through the play of light and shadow. Such beauty truly emerges from skilled craftsmanship.

Sustainable Initiatives as the Responsibility of the Maker

Re: Kuska is a sustainable circular project you're working on.

Re: Kuska started from the desire to see beautiful things used for a long time as a responsibility of the maker. We have established a support system to help customers cherish our products for years. Since every step from dyeing the yarn to weaving and sewing is completed in-house, we have the strength to repair products in case of trouble. We also engage in remodeling and reuse. Maintenance is provided free of charge to ensure long-term use of our products.

What is the significance of handwoven Tango textiles to kuska fabric?

Approximately 80-90% of the manufacturing process of Tango textiles takes place in Tango. It encompasses the pinnacle of kimono-making technology, from yarn refining and dyeing to warping, hand-weaving, and fabric processing. By exploring its possibilities, we aspire to be a unique handwoven brand that brings forth unparalleled textures and quality. That is why we are committed to all-handmade weaving to express the three-dimensional beauty and texture that can only emerge from the sophisticated craftsmanship of artisans, not from machine-produced, efficient, flat textiles.

Could you briefly explain the production process? Are there any particularly challenging or distinctive steps in the process?

The preparatory processes such as yarn refining and dyeing utilize Tango Chirimen technology. Tango Chirimen is a type of post-dyed silk fabric woven in the Tango region of Kyoto Prefecture, using highly twisted yarns in the weft, resulting in a textured surface called "Shibo" after undergoing refining processing in Tango. Weaving fabric with twisted yarn requires complex intuition that can only be acquired through experience, as it necessitates adjustments to the warp tension and weft insertion rotations. Tango Chirimen craftsmen, with their accumulated expertise over many years, have mastered controlling twisted yarns to continue weaving fabrics with unique textures that are rare even on a global scale.

The essence of this expression lies in the fabric's three-dimensional depth. The unique undulation "Shibo" produced by utilizing the yarn's shrinking power provides a three-dimensional aspect to what would typically be flat textiles. Even for a single twisted yarn, there are countless types of weft yarns due to the combinations of yarn alignment and twist counts. Artisans create diverse expressions on the fabric surface by combining different structures.

Additionally, the artisanal technique of "Karami-ori," considered the pinnacle of weaving technology in kimono-making, is used to express a soft volume and shadows in the fabric. Karami-ori involves passing the weft through interlaced warp threads, creating spaces within the fabric. The interlacing gives rise to a unique texture and three-dimensional effect. Due to its complex weaving technique, Karami-ori is only produced slowly, making it an exceptional and rare item.

Bringing Happiness Worldwide Through Beautiful Craftsmanship

The combination of designs and materials such as leather textiles is unique. Could you share the sources of your inspiration, or anything you reference in your creations?

I draw inspiration from craftwork and nature, such as the sea and waves of Tango. Since I've been surfing as a hobby since I was 18, I've always been in touch with nature and believe that beauty emerges from it. I focus on the texture and feel of the materials, carefully designing them from the weaving stage.

You've developed various products, not only apparel but also furniture and surfboards, collaborating with numerous companies and brands. Could you tell us how these collaborations started?

Our company's vision, "To make the world happy through beautiful craftsmanship," is a fundamental criterion for collaborations. For instance, if we want to create furniture, we partner with a brand to weave our textiles for furniture.

While we sometimes get approaches for collaborations, we usually take the initiative. Our strength lies in our ability to produce diverse textiles. We can create leather-weaved fabric for bags or materials for things that require durability, such as furniture and surfboards, customized to each purpose.

Internationally, our products are available in the UK, Germany, Italy, the US, and Singapore. Our ties are even sold at "Huntsman," a Royal Warrant holder, on Savile Row in London, a street lined with prestigious men's fashion stores.

We gained momentum in international expansion through participating six times since 2017 in the "PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO," one of the world's largest menswear trade fairs held bi-annually in Florence, Italy, thereby broadening our connections. Our textiles are valued for their three-dimensional textures not found in machine-made fabrics.

Our hand-woven ties are known for their depth, light and shadow interplay, three-dimensional gloss, and unique texture.

For instance, ties made of Tango Chirimen are typically transformed from kimono fabric into ties, essentially an extension of kimono. Our approach to craftsmanship differs from the beginning, using kimono-making techniques to create beautiful items. We design the weaving methodology to consider the final finish and appearance, embedding design into the material itself to bring out textured surfaces. Even plain textiles have designs, rendering them entirely different from flat, smooth fabrics.

A Better Environment Leads to Better Craftsmanship

Could you tell us about the challenges in the textile industry and what you think is necessary to solve them?

The challenges facing the Tango textile industry include a severe decline in market demand as it is traditionally associated with Japanese clothing and the aging of skilled artisans. At our company, we are actively hiring younger generations and women raising children as weavers. The average age of our weavers is in their late 30s with some in their 20s. Since the production process focuses on hand weaving instead of machines, each person is assigned one loom, and they work independently rather than as part of an assembly line. For those raising children, we have introduced a flexible shift system that allows for shorter working hours or extended work hours for others. This system allows individuals to tailor their work schedules to their lifestyles. We also provide opportunities for artisans to demonstrate their work in physical stores and interact with customers to foster pride in their craftsmanship.

The traditional crafts industry often operates under a notion that running a business at a loss is acceptable; however, even with excellent craftsmanship, it is vital to remain profitable to sustain operations. We occasionally omit overly complex techniques to ensure productivity and efficiency and keep product prices affordable by bypassing wholesalers.

What are your thoughts on PR and branding activities within the textile industry? What actual initiatives are you implementing?

Textiles are often perceived as raw materials or wholesale fabrics, which makes them challenging to promote compared to brands with iconic, fashion-forward designs, often leading to cost competition. Hence, we recognize the need to effectively convey our unique manufacturing process and artisans' dedication to our customers.

We consistently aim to create dynamic collaborations and launch newsworthy products. While online shopping has become widespread, our handcrafted products require customers to see them in person to appreciate details not visible on-screen. Consequently, we are establishing connections at physical retail locations, so people can experience our products firsthand. Currently, we have stores in Tango and the Tokyo Imperial Hotel. Moving forward, we plan to open new stores domestically and internationally, allowing customers to physically engage with our products and fostering increased brand recognition through direct communication with them.

Pursuing Human-Centric Craftsmanship & Uplifting the Entire Community

Tango is known for Tango Chirimen. Are there any collaborations or initiatives among local weaving businesses or efforts related to regional revitalization?

We actively engage in gatherings with peers and collaborate with different types of textile manufacturers within the community, creating products under joint branding arrangements.

From 2019 to 2021, we crafted and donated neckties to the newly founded 清新高等学校 in Tango for the first time in 71 years. This decision was driven by our desire for local youth to connect with our regional creations. We designed the ties with durability in mind, ensuring they would last throughout the students' three years of high school. Such initiatives not only pursue profit but also foster community contribution, enhancing corporate value.

We have also launched a web media outlet, "THE TANGO," to promote the allure of our creators and Tango's craftsmanship, aiming for community-wide improvement.

What innovations or new technologies are you planning to pursue in the future? Can you share your vision looking ahead?

We aim to expand our physical stores domestically and internationally, presenting our handwoven Tango textiles and establishing ourselves as a global brand. While showcasing the appeal of handcrafting, we are integrating digital tools to support more human-centric craftsmanship. For instance, by using generative AI for designs to be completed by handweavers, we are exploring how to combine technology with human artistry. It's crucial for artisans to enjoy the creation process, as it leads to more compelling products. We will continue to pursue craftsmanship that maximizes the value of our handwoven textiles.