When flipping through history textbooks, we often reflect on the lives of the people behind the dates printed on the pages. The 1,300-year journey of Oshima Tsumugi was similarly anything but smooth.

When I first visited Amami, a village elder told me something I'll never forget: "This cloth is soaked in both the suffering and the pride of our island."

In this article, we explore the historical inevitability of Oshima Tsumugi from ancient times to the present day through the eyes of our editorial team.

Ancient Times: The Memory of Dark Indigo Preserved in the Shosoin

The roots of Oshima Tsumugi trace back astonishingly far. Its existence first appears in official records in 734 (Tenpyo 6) during the Nara period.

In the "献物帳" (inventory of offerings) kept at Todaiji Temple's Shosoin Repository, which holds the personal belongings of Emperor Shomu, there is an entry stating that "kachi-iro (a dark blue so deep it approaches black) tsumugi was presented from the southern islands." This suggests that plant dyeing techniques had already been established in Amami by the 8th century.

At the time, it was a simple, rustic cloth crafted by islanders for personal use, using hand-spun yarn from raw silk floss (spread-out silkworm cocoons) and sometimes blended with banana fiber or cotton. Passed down from hand to hand across the nature-rich land of Amami, this humble fabric would later be swept into turbulent political waves.

Early Modern Era: Satsuma Domain Rule and Refinement Forged by the Burden of Tribute Cloth

In 1609 (Keicho 14), forces from the Satsuma Domain landed on Amami Oshima and subjugated the Ryukyu Kingdom, dramatically altering the fate of Oshima Tsumugi.

In 1637 (Kanei 14), the Satsuma Domain introduced the "tribute cloth system." Through this, Oshima Tsumugi, along with brown sugar, was pressed into service as a tax owed to the domain.

In 1720 (Kyoho 5), based on the "大島政典録", the Satsuma Domain issued a ban on wearing tsumugi.

• Overview: Island residents other than officials were strictly forbidden from wearing tsumugi.

• Result: Oshima Tsumugi was established exclusively as a tribute item for the domain.

What we found particularly fascinating during our research was how this oppressive background ironically spurred technological refinement. Because the domain demanded exceptional quality, artisans had no choice but to pursue ever more intricate and exquisite weaving techniques. Furthermore, the theory that islanders hid their cloth in mud to escape the eyes of government inspectors—giving birth to modern mud-dyeing—is itself a product born from this harsh era.

Late Edo Period: Saigo Takamori and Oshima Tsumugi—The Exile's Passion Etched into the Saigo Pattern

Among historical figures, none is more deeply connected to Oshima Tsumugi than Saigo Takamori, a hero of the late Edo period.

In 1859 (Ansei 6), in connection with the Ansei Purge, Saigo was exiled to Amami Oshima. He spent roughly three years in Tatsugo, where he married a local woman named Aikana and fathered two children.

During his stay, Saigo witnessed Oshima Tsumugi production firsthand. At the time, villages across Amami competed fiercely in craft technique, and a specific checkered pattern favored by Saigo came to be known as the "Saigo pattern."

• Characteristics of the Saigo pattern: An extraordinarily intricate design featuring cross kasuri embedded within a lattice grid.

• Cultural value: Established as the premier pattern for men's garments, honoring Saigo's noble legacy while serving as a symbol of pride for each village.

The time Saigo spent on Amami was a vital period of contemplation in his life, and right beside him was always Oshima Tsumugi, woven through the immense labor and devotion of the islanders. This historic connection symbolizes how Oshima Tsumugi possesses a refined dignity that resonates with the samurai spirit.

Meiji Period: The Restoration, Technological Innovation, and Transformation into a Modern Industry

The Meiji Restoration of 1868 brought a new light of "freedom" to Oshima Tsumugi.

Around 1877, freed from the previous feudal system, free market trading began. From this point, Oshima Tsumugi quickly gained nationwide popularity, establishing its brand as a high-end silk textile.

During this era, what enabled a dramatic boost in productivity was the "loom improvement" introduced around 1897.

• From jibata (ground loom) to takahata (treadle loom): Transitioned from the traditional ground loom—where weavers sat on the floor using their waist strength—to the high loom, operated by foot pedals while seated in a chair.

• Impact: Weaving speed increased significantly, and quality became far more consistent. This paved the way for tackling even more intricate and sophisticated kasuri (ikat) patterns.

Furthermore, in 1901, the Kagoshima Oshima Tsumugi Trade Association (now the Honba Amami Oshima Tsumugi Cooperative Association) was established to prevent inferior goods from circulating and to maintain quality standards. The strict inspection system that serves as the foundation for the authenticity seals (shoshi) affixed to fabric bolts today was established during this period.

Taisho and Showa Eras: Evolution of Materials and Redefinition of Value

As the 20th century began, the raw material itself underwent a transformation. While hand-spun thread was dominant through the Meiji period, growing demand led to a complete transition during the Taisho period to degummed raw silk thread (hon-kin nerito)—fine thread reeled directly from silkworm cocoons and processed to remove impurities and enhance luster.

• Change: The slubs (lumps) characteristic of hand-spun tsumugi thread disappeared, creating the supple texture and smooth luster that define modern Oshima Tsumugi.

• Increased Value: This elevated its status from simple everyday wear to the pinnacle of sophisticated, stylish fashion wear (oshare-gi).

By the mid-Showa period in the 1970s, production reached its peak, solidifying Oshima Tsumugi's status as one of Japan's premier traditional crafts. Today, even as fewer people wear traditional kimono, Oshima Tsumugi remains highly acclaimed for its durability as a material and its geometric design aesthetic. It is beginning a new chapter in its history through upcycling initiatives and expansion into fashion accessories.

Oshima Tsumugi: A Fabric Embodied with Inherited Pride

Tracing the history of Oshima Tsumugi is nothing short of reliving the story of hardship and perseverance embodied by Amami Island. From ancient textiles preserved in the Shosoin Repository to the refined techniques polished under Satsuma Domain rule, and the historical encounter with Saigo Takamori—every event is woven into each bolt of cloth with historical inevitability.

At major turning points in history, Oshima Tsumugi served as a shield to protect the weavers' pride and a medium for self-expression. Even during eras when wearing it was forbidden, the artisans' passion to weave ever finer textiles continues to live on through 1,300 years in the fabric that reaches our hands today. Rather than simply preserving it as something old, the key lies in how we reinterpret the wisdom and resilience carved into it from a modern perspective. Picking up a piece of Oshima Tsumugi means becoming a part of this grand story.