Introduction

It is a mystical world wrapped in the passion of artisans, passed down through generations. Japanese crafts are not only layers of skills built by predecessors but also carry thoughts and philosophies for the future.

The excellent skills and techniques of Japanese crafts have continued to inspire countless artists and designers. What thrives here is respect for the blessings of nature and a deep consciousness for sustainable crafting. I can't help but be strongly attracted to Japan, which continues to preserve its unique cultural and craft heritage.

My connection with Japan feels instinctive, as if I've been Japanese in a previous life—such a mysterious feeling. I'm drawn not just to the ritual-like gestures in weaving techniques and dyeing work but to the "meticulous spirit" rooted in the entire culture. The simplicity embedded in Japan's everyday life, stripped of waste yet containing profound meaning. Even before I first visited Japan in 2017, I somehow felt nostalgic about these elements' existence.

New Experiences

My deep involvement with Japan began during my university days. Participating in an internship as a student from India wasn't an easy journey, but this experience became one of the most valuable events in my life.

At Kyoto's "JoiRae Textile Studio," I had the opportunity to learn about felt-making and plant dyeing as an apprentice designer, while also encountering the subtleties of Japanese customs and culture.

My interest in Japan was initially sparked while pondering globalization. This concept heavily reflects Western influence, but the question "Why can't Eastern culture become the world's focal point?" popped into my head. For instance, I imagined the cultural heritage of Japan and the Silk Road spreading worldwide with innovative ideas for the future. This led to a growing interest in Japanese culture and crafts, eventually connecting to academic research.

Although my stay in Japan was limited, a bond with the culture and textile traditions was deeply engraved in my heart. After returning to my country, I immersed myself in researching Japanese textiles, clothing, culture, art, and crafts.

That passion once again led me back to Japan. In the fall of 2023, I secured a fellowship from the Japan Foundation to deepen my understanding of Japanese textile culture further. The fellowship allowed me to advance my research focusing on Yuzen dyeing in particular.

My encounter with Yuzen, a unique technique, likely stemmed from my fascination with the existence of kimonos. My design practice originally involved challenging the creation of kimonos using distinctly Indian threads. The thread used was called "Kala Cotton," hand-spun organic cotton cultivated with rainwater by India's artisan communities, an eco-friendly material.

Throughout the creation process, using delicately hand-spun threads and collaborating with local hand-weaving artisans, I explored the potential of design based on the concept of "mottainai," or "zero waste."

Kimonos have a structure that utilizes the fabric width without waste, a principle akin to traditional Indian clothing creation. This framework of maximizing limited materials felt like a symbol of sustainable design.

Within this, I became deeply interested in techniques that express art on fabric through hand-painting. When I learned about "Yuzen," a method allowing dye to penetrate deep within fibers to achieve delicate painting-like expressions, I was captivated by its deep essence.

Yuzen

Yuzen dyeing is truly an artisanal technique that uses dyes to create patterns resembling paintings with countless colors. While dyeing technology itself already existed in the 8th century, the technique of drawing pictures directly on fabric with dye, known as Yuzen dyeing, became widespread during the late 17th century. This was thanks to Miyazaki Yuzensai, a renowned fan artist from Kyoto. The Yuzen dyeing he created introduced vibrant colors and new expressions to the traditional world of kimonos and quickly gained popularity.

Miyazaki Yuzensai's works often featured elegant designs reminiscent of the refined court culture of the Heian period, which significantly contributed to the spread of Yuzen dyeing. Interestingly, Yuzen dyeing is considered one of the few dyeing techniques that developed uniquely in Japan, with little influence from other cultures.

This technique of drawing pictorial designs on fabric was made possible by the advanced starch-resist dyeing techniques of skilled dyers who were located around Horikawa in Kyoto, such as on Shijo Street and Gojo Street.

By the mid-18th century, with the development of merchant culture, Yuzen dyeing spread nationwide, leading to diverse expressions. Notable examples include "Kyo Yuzen" from Kyoto, "Kaga Yuzen" from Kanazawa, and "Edo Yuzen (Tokyo Hand-Painted Yuzen)" from Tokyo. Each developed a unique aesthetic based on regional culture, climate, and preferences.

Soon, the popularity of the fan paintings created by Miyazaki Yuzensai was gradually replaced by the development of the new dyeing technique of Yuzen, which came to be regarded as an indispensable part of Japanese traditional culture.

Yuzen dyeing includes various techniques such as "Kata Yuzen," which uses stencils, and "Subaki Yuzen," which involves drawing designs directly on the fabric. However, the most traditional method is "Hand-painted Yuzen." My research focused on hand-painted Yuzen, exploring its historical and cultural significance from the 17th to the 21st century, and considering its applications in modern art and fashion.

Hand-painted Yuzen has continued since the 17th century, using a dye called "Aobana" that easily dissolves in water to transfer designs onto fabric. The distinctive contour lines surrounding the motifs are drawn with "Itome-nori," an adhesive made from glutinous rice, rice bran, and lime, forming the boundary between dyed and undyed sections.

Subsequently, "Gojiru" is applied to set the dye before coloring the motifs and then proceeds to "Hikizome (Jizome)," where the background is dyed. Hikizome, a technique that requires high skill, involves finely adjusting shades of color by moving brushes parallel on the fabric. After dyeing, the fabric is steamed to set the colors, and the starch is washed away in running water to finish. Nowadays, some workshops use "Gomu-nori," diluted latex rubber with benzine, but the beauty and craftsmanship of hand-painted Yuzen are still passed down.

Kyo Yuzen

My research on Kyo Yuzen was advanced with the support of Junko Sophie Kakizaki, the brand ambassador for the "Kyoto Yuzen Sarees Project." This project seeks to apply Japanese Yuzen dyeing to Indian saris and aims at expanding into overseas markets.

Kyoto's hand-painted Yuzen allows for diverse designs through small-lot production, creating cultural connections. Through Kakizaki, I learned from Masashi Ichikawa, a master of Kyo Yuzen, about the flexibility of Kyo Yuzen's techniques and the commonalities between saris and kimonos. I take pride in being involved in this initiative that looks toward the future of Yuzen as an Indian.

Kaga Yuzen

The history of dyeing in Kanazawa traces back to the Muromachi period when "Okunizome" (also called Kagazome) was practiced. In the mid-Edo period, Miyazaki Yuzensai from Kyoto visited Kanazawa as a dyer of "Tarodaya," and Kaga Yuzen was born. Kaga Yuzen developed with techniques like dye resistance using indigo and support from the Kaga Domain, and it was well-suited to the humid climate.

Kaga Yuzen is characterized by a palette based on five colors: indigo, crimson, ocher, grass, and ancient purple, depicting flora, birds, and natural landscapes. Techniques like "Mushikui" (emulating leaves eaten by insects) and "Sakibokashi" (blurring from the outside in) are used and are known for embodying the wabi-sabi aesthetic.

While Kyo Yuzen involves embellishments such as foil-stamping and embroidery and uses reddish-brown "Itome-nori," Kaga Yuzen emphasizes the delicacy of nature, with "Itome-nori" finished in white or gray.

Edo Yuzen (Tokyo Hand-Painted Yuzen)

In Tokyo, many artisans work independently, allowing their uniqueness and contemporary design sense to shine through. My research on Edo Yuzen was supported by the Tokyo Craft Dyeing Association. In the past, the association had around 400 dyeing artisans, but due to aging and the decline of the younger generation, the number has now dwindled to about 40.

Under the guidance of Keiko Tanabe, one of the few female artisans at the association, I had the opportunity to participate in sample development. For Tanabe, Yuzen is a source of emotional support and has brought new meaning to her life. I feel that the philosophy and cultural values inherent in Yuzen continue to inspire many people today.

Conclusion

In Japan, genuine hand-painted Yuzen kimonos bear the artisan's mark and are accompanied by a certificate of authenticity. This initiative, supported by the Ministry of Economy, Trade, and Industry, is a crucial step to preserve traditional craftsmanship and pass it on to future generations. I am convinced that such marks serve as indicators of the true value of handwork in an era of industrialization and mass production, offering a story woven into the textiles to a wider audience.

However, the world of traditional Japanese dyeing and weaving faces numerous challenges. Yuzen dyeing requires 15 to 20 delicate processes and demands advanced skills honed over years of training. While many master artisans have been recognized as Living National Treasures, the challenges of aging artisans and a lack of successors are significant issues. The apprenticeship period is long and rigorous, making it a high hurdle for the younger generation to fully enter this path.

Nonetheless, the passion of artists who strive to protect the tradition of Yuzen dyeing while venturing into new expressions with a contemporary sensibility is strong. What they need is an environment where they can receive guidance and support to learn the techniques. By providing such a setting, artisans should be able to preserve the traditional techniques while exploring new possibilities, even in a rapidly changing modern society.

At the same time, attention must be paid to the production costs of Yuzen and the decline of kimono culture. By applying Yuzen techniques to new media and incorporating them into modern living, it may be possible to highlight their value anew. By respecting tradition while developing it towards the future, the beauty and spirit of Yuzen dyeing can continue to resonate with the next generation.