Stroll through Awaji Island, and a delightful fragrance will inevitably drift your way. Recognized in the Ministry of the Environment's "かおり風景100選," this island is Japan's largest producer of incense, accounting for over half of the country's output. What allowed this aromatic culture to flourish here? We visited the workshop of Awaji Baikundo, where artisans craft as many as 300,000 incense sticks in a single batch.

The Island of Westerly Winds and the Scent Route Forged by Kitamaebune Ships

The roots of incense culture on Awaji Island are deeply intertwined with the region's unique natural environment and its history as a logistics hub dating back to the Edo period.

Could you tell us how Awaji Island became Japan's top incense producer?

The biggest factor is the climate. A westerly wind blows year-round across Awaji Island from Kyushu toward Tokyo, and this breeze was perfect for drying incense sticks. Even today, many factories on the island are built facing west to make use of this wind. As you walk around the island, the scent of incense production wafts from everywhere. The culture is so pervasive throughout the town that it was selected for the Ministry of the Environment's "かおり風景100選."

How did the history of logistics networks influence incense manufacturing?

The Kitamaebune cargo ships, which were active during the Edo period, were essential. At that time, raw materials like aromatic woods, spices, and herbal medicines were brought from overseas to the trade port of Sakai. From there, they were transported to Kyoto to be processed into scented sachets and other products, before finally being brought to Awaji Island to be made into incense sticks. This established route was key. Thanks in part to Takadaya Kahei, a wealthy merchant and Kitamaebune ship owner from Awaji, the island prospered as a hub where various products were loaded and shipped to different regions. It was this combination of a favorable climate, bustling maritime transport, and a strategic location as a logistics center that allowed it to grow into a major production area.

Does the current method of sourcing raw materials still follow this historical pattern?

Since very few plants used for incense can be harvested in Japan, we still rely heavily on imports. For example, we source high-quality Tabu-no-ki wood, which acts as a binder for the incense powder, from places like Taiwan. The fundamental structure—gathering high-quality raw materials from outside and using Awaji Island's environment and artisan skills to create the final product—has remained unchanged for centuries.

The Wisdom of Scent: How Warriors and Tea Masters Aligned Their Minds with Fragrance

Incense is more than just a pleasant smell; it has long been used as a tool to calm the mind and shift the atmosphere of a space. This ancient wisdom still holds relevance in our modern lives.

What are your thoughts on how the scent of incense affects a person's mental state?

Scent has a powerful ability to regulate human emotions and one's surroundings. For instance, the fragrance of sandalwood, often used in summer tea ceremonies, is said to have a calming effect, as if it were washing the mind clean. Even samurai warriors during the Sengoku period would scent their armor with aromatic wood before battle. This helped them quell their heightened emotions and calm their minds for clear-headed decision-making. Fragrance has long been used to create an environment that helps one maintain a middle path, avoiding extremes.

In our busy modern lives, what's a good way to incorporate incense?

You don't need to set aside a special time for it, but it's important to choose your scents consciously. If you burn the same incense every day out of habit, your sense of smell will adapt, making it harder to notice the nuances of the fragrance or appreciate it fully. By selecting a scent that matches your mood or purpose for the day, you can sharpen your senses. The time spent lighting incense and quietly observing the fragrance fill the space becomes a precious moment to connect with your inner self and center your mind.

Is the role of fragrance in traditional events also tied to this spiritual aspect?

Yes. For example, Amacha (hydrangea tea) is used during the Hanamatsuri festival celebrating Buddha's birth. Burning incense blended with Amacha carries the meaning of purifying the heart. Incense is not just an air freshener; it serves as an 'environmental device' to purify a space, focus the minds of those present on the 'here and now,' and encourage moral conduct. The daily habit of burning incense fosters respect for the unseen and, in turn, enriches our daily lives.

Not a Single Stick Bent out of 100,000: The Care Artisans Pour into Every Incense Stick

Even in today's increasingly mechanized world of incense production, quality can suffer when blending is left solely to machines. The final quality is ultimately determined by the artisan's manual craftsmanship and a profound commitment to the product.

What aspects of the incense manufacturing process do artisans pay particular attention to?

The shaping and drying process. Freshly extruded raw incense, created by kneading ingredients, is moist and tends to shrink and bend into a bow shape as it dries. While a bent stick might not have quality issues, it can subtly affect the user's state of mind. To prevent this, artisans meticulously perform "ita-awase" (board alignment) by hand multiple times, carefully adjusting airflow and taking about a week to ten days to dry the sticks perfectly straight. Afterward, the incense is stored in a cool, dark place. This aging period allows the fragrance to mellow, resulting in a softer, more composed scent.

What is the significance of providing perfectly straight incense sticks?

Incense is not meant to be self-assertive; it is intended to welcome others and enhance a space. The graceful act of placing a straight incense stick on a Buddhist altar is a beautiful gesture that is passed down to children, fostering good posture and a composed mind. Artisans nurture each incense stick as if it were their own child, hoping it will fulfill its purpose of purifying a space when it reaches the customer. This is why they approach every step, from selecting unseen raw materials to the final drying process, with uncompromising dedication.

What is the scale of a single production batch?

We typically produce in a unit known as "10 kan-neri," which weighs about 37.5 kg. This translates to roughly 100,000 incense sticks being made in a single batch. Achieving uniform quality across such a large volume requires an expert's intuition. Even with mass production, every single stick is infused with the artisan's care and responsibility, which is the foundation of our brand's trust.

Smokeless Incense, Flameless Scents: The Evolving Forms of Fragrance

As lifestyles change and living environments diversify, new ways of enjoying incense are emerging.

What new products are being developed to meet modern demands?

With the rise of highly airtight homes like apartments, the demand for smokeless incense has surged. These products are made with a charcoal base that has already been combusted, a process that ensures almost no smoke is produced when lit. They are designed for modern lifestyles, allowing people to enjoy the pure fragrance without worrying about staining their rooms or having scents cling to fabrics.

I understand there are also ways to enjoy incense without using fire.

We offer items like scented sachets (nioi-bukuro) that release fragrance just by being placed in a room, as well as hands-on workshops where you can blend your own fragrances and shape them. This handmade incense can be displayed as home decor, filling the space with a pleasant aroma that lasts for about six months. Since they are flameless, they are a safe way to enjoy fragrances in homes with pets or small children.

Are you involved in any collaborations with other fields?

We are collaborating with university research institutes on initiatives, such as studies to determine how smelling incense during e-sports affects concentration and performance. We're also seeing more tourists from overseas visiting our workshop to purchase incense directly. By preserving our traditional ethos while embracing modern science and new fields, we aim to expand the potential of fragrance from Awaji Island to the rest of the world.

Incense-making, nurtured by the climate and history of Awaji Island, is imbued with the meticulous care and profound philosophy of its artisans. The manual skill required to craft a perfectly straight stick is an unseen effort that undoubtedly reaches the user, delivered with a fragrance of true substance.