Arimatsu Shibori is known for its intricate detail and beauty, made possible through artisanal handwork. It features a variety of patterns created using the "shibori" technique, where fabric is tied and then dyed. Among the many shibori-producing regions, Arimatsu is renowned for its particularly rich variation in patterns.

There is a company in Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture, that has long carried on the history of Arimatsu Shibori—"Shibori-Dyeing Kuno-Studio". In the past, this company focused mainly on shibori-dyed cotton and linen fabrics for traditional Japanese wear, but in recent years it has expanded to work with materials like leather and polyester, applying shibori techniques to Western clothing and interior decor. These efforts have begun drawing attention from fashion brands both within Japan and abroad.

How has this company, which is constantly exploring new possibilities for Arimatsu Shibori, developed over time? We spoke to Tatsuya Arai, who is in charge of planning, about the appeal of Arimatsu Shibori, the company's initiatives, and its future outlook.

The Appeal of Arimatsu Shibori Lies in Handcrafted, One-of-a-Kind Pieces

The history of Arimatsu Shibori began around 1608. In Arimatsu town (now part of Nagoya City's Midori Ward), where agriculture and developing a post town proved challenging, locals started selling tenugui hand towels to travelers on the Tokaido road. Eventually, their products gained popularity not only among travelers but also among feudal lords from various provinces, becoming a famous specialty of the Tokaido.

Arai adds, "Another factor in Arimatsu's development was its proximity to Mikawa, a cotton-producing region, making it easy to procure fabric."

The distinct features of Arimatsu Shibori are its unique textures, such as wrinkles or pleats, and its beautiful patterns. Many different techniques have been developed over the years, resulting in a remarkable diversity of over 1,000 pattern variations.

"Because Arimatsu Shibori techniques have continually evolved and been refined with the times, there are so many different types. Plus, since artisans make each piece by hand, even mass-produced items will look slightly different. They're mass-produced, but each is genuinely unique—that's the true value."

While machines can produce identical items in bulk, handcrafting inevitably leads to subtle differences. Yet, this very "character" is what makes Arimatsu Shibori so compelling.

Full In-House Production Strengths: From Kimono to Contemporary Clothing

The Shibori-Dyeing Kuno-Studio was established in 1912. Since its founding, it primarily handled shibori-dyeing for yukata and kimono, but underwent a shift toward Western clothing when the fourth-generation owner, Tsuyoshi Kuno, became president.

"Around the time our fourth-generation owner became president, the DtoC (direct-to-consumer) business model was gaining traction in Japan. That opened up new opportunities for us, as we began receiving requests from a variety of apparel brands and started applying shibori techniques to Western-style fashion.

Currently, we no longer produce shibori for kimono or yukata. Instead, we focus on shibori-dyed fabrics for items from domestic and international apparel brands, as well as for interior uses."

Because shibori was originally developed for yukata, the fabrics traditionally used were around 36 cm wide—a fairly narrow size. But for Western clothing, widths of about 120-130 cm are needed, prompting the development of new techniques to adapt.

"To accommodate the wider fabric, we developed new shibori methods. Traditional yukata often used cotton or linen, but modern fashion utilizes a wide range of materials, like polyester, silk, and leather. We have worked out different combinations of dyes and chemicals to handle these material differences as well."

Furthermore, since shibori patterns were originally intended for traditional Japanese clothing, many had a distinctly "Japanese" aesthetic—patterns that often don't suit Western wear. To address this, Arai explains, "I've created and suggested original patterns to match contemporary fashion."

While most factories use a division-of-labor approach, Shibori-Dyeing Kuno-Studio handles the entire process in-house. This comprehensive system allows them to adapt flexibly to new materials and designs. "The excitement of witnessing the birth of new techniques through our ongoing challenges is what makes it so interesting", he remarks.

Proposing Designs Alongside Birth Stories

The traditional production process of Arimatsu Shibori consists of five main steps: "Kata-hori" (carving the pattern), "E-zuri" (transferring the pattern onto the fabric), "Shibori-kako" (shibori processing), "Senshoku" (dyeing), and "Ito-nuki" (removing the threads used for shibori). However, Shibori-Dyeing Kuno-Studio adjusts these steps depending on the material.

"Sometimes we add steps, and other times we skip steps, such as decorating the fabric directly with a chalk pen instead of 'Kata-hori.' In addition to shibori processing, we also handle 'Enshuku-kako' (shrinking the fabric with strong alkaline dye) and 'Keijo-kioku-kako' (giving the fabric a textured, shape-memory finish)."

Of the many possible patterns, the company's specialties are "Kumo-shibori" (spider shibori), which resembles a spider’s web, and "Kanoko-shibori" (fawn shibori), which looks like the spots on a fawn's back. Both techniques are traditional to the Arimatsu area and require skilled craftsmanship.

Currently, the company employs about 20 artisans, including subcontractors, all of whom put their hearts into their craft. "Every artisan is committed to ensuring that absolutely no non-standard products (B-grade items) leave our workshop," says Arai.

The company receives many requests not only from domestic brands but also from overseas labels. Sometimes, brand designers visit the studio for a full day to discuss and develop designs. With some brands valuing the story behind the production, Shibori-Dyeing Kuno-Studio makes it a point to share these origin stories alongside proposals for dyeing techniques and processes.

Their ability to work with well-known brands is a testament to the "one-of-a-kind value" that their creations have earned. As the demand for traditional Japanese clothing declines, the company is forging new possibilities for Arimatsu Shibori in modern times.

Pursuing Arimatsu Shibori Chosen by a Diverse Range of Brands

Although Shibori-Dyeing Kuno-Studio is finding new avenues, they are facing a shortage of skilled craftsmen. To address this, they hold shibori dyeing workshops and actively recruit people interested in making it their profession. In fact, many current artisans first joined the company after participating in these workshops.

In addition, due to the rising costs and scarcity of dyes, the company adapts by opting for alternative processes when possible. Despite these challenges, Arai maintains an optimistic outlook for the future.

"Moving forward, I’d like to see our products adopted by even more overseas brands. While it’s possible to use trading companies to obtain international orders, I’d also like to directly manage these transactions ourselves.

Since all our products are handmade, prices inevitably run high. Still, we’re brainstorming new techniques that could help lower costs so that more brands can choose us."

Last year, the company launched the unisex studio brand "kuno." Using fabrics and products with experimental shibori patterns and processing techniques that weren't mass-produced, they've been able to bring unique items to market. When the first collection for the fall/winter 2024 season was released, they even received inquiries from abroad.

"Each piece of Arimatsu Shibori has a unique, one-of-a-kind value, so there’s never a true endpoint to what we create—which is incredibly exciting", says Arai. For him, Kuno represents a fresh challenge. The brand promises to bring a new spark of vitality to the endangered world of traditional crafts.