High-Quality Eyewear Originating from a Major Production Hub

First, can you tell us about the background of Sabae City's eyeglass production boom?

Eyeglass production in Fukui Prefecture began over 100 years ago. Due to heavy snowfall in the region, farming was impossible from November to March. A local from Sabae City called Gizaemon Masunaga sought to "improve living conditions" and invited craftsmen to Fukui Prefecture, initiating eyeglass production as a side job for farmers.

The effort started in Fukui City, but given his wife's roots in Sabae City, it eventually spread there as well.

Additionally, the geographical proximity of Osaka and Fukui, along with the moisture-rich climate typical of the Sea of Japan side, was ideal for eyeglass manufacturing. Since many materials used in eyeglasses incorporate cotton, a non-drying environment is crucial. The climate in Fukui Prefecture was well-suited for storing these materials, which contributed to the growth of the eyeglass industry.

The rise of Fukui Prefecture as a global glasses hub can be attributed to the creation of titanium glasses via brazing. This attracted global attention due to the lightweight and durable nature of titanium compared to the heavy alloy glasses available at the time, leading to the area's growth as a premier production hub.

Why did you choose Sabae City for NOCHINO OPTICAL's eyewear production?

Our brand values creating "exceptional products that bring joy to customers," making quality control vital. Unless we believe in our products, we won’t confidently recommend them. Only Sabae City's craftsmen can achieve the quality NOCHINO OPTICAL aims for.

We believe "eyewear made by skilled artisans" becomes a treasured item for customers.

In recent years, you can label products as "Made in Japan" even if only the final steps are done locally, leading to questions about the credibility of "Made in Japan." NOCHINO OPTICAL is committed to 100% Made in Japan, using Japanese materials and completing every manufacturing step domestically.

While producing overseas could help reduce costs, we remain dedicated to pure Japanese craftsmanship. Collaborating with Sabae City's skilled artisans allows us to create superb products.

NOCHINO OPTICAL offers a diverse range of models; what do you prioritize during planning?

We focus on "universal craftsmanship." Perhaps you’ve seen a product and thought, "I’d want this if not for that feature." At NOCHINO OPTICAL, we avoid such issues by not adding unnecessary originality but instead aim for simplicity and a fundamental approach in our designs.

Initially, our brand had no plans for new models, but customer requests encouraged us to create new ones.

The Unique "Flavor" Born from Artisans' Handwork

Could you walk us through the process of making eyewear?

From design and planning to assembly, eyewear goes through over 200 steps. Glasses are typically made through a division of labor, meaning a vast number of artisans, including a veteran with seven decades of experience, are involved in crafting NOCHINO OPTICAL eyewear.

In recent years, pressing a button on a machine can efficiently mass-produce identical products, but NOCHINO OPTICAL does not seek that. They wish to deliver to customers "vintage-like products with unique character." Achieving this is only possible through the hands of artisans, not machines.

As each person's face shape, nose height, ear position differ, glasses are not generic products. What the artisans craft initially are semi-finished products, and they only become complete once tailored to fit the customer's ears and nose in-store by fitting specialists. At NOCHINO OPTICAL stores, specialists complete the final product through a series of expert processes.

Among the many production processes, which is particularly key?

I'd say the "polishing" done on the semi-finished products. Since it's dependent on the artisans' tactile sense, even those with 30 years in eyewear manufacturing find it "challenging."

Furthermore, a distinctive feature of NOCHINO OPTICAL is the way rivets at the ends of the glasses are attached. While mass production often involves machinery, they dare to adopt traditional manual methods, with artisans punching them out from molds and attaching them individually.

Across the region, how many people are involved in eyewear manufacturing?

The population of Sabae City is about 60,000, and I'm told around 7,000 people are currently involved in eyewear-related work. There are artisans ranging from the young to seasoned veterans. Eyewear production follows a division of labor, and depending on the factory, the range of work an artisan handles varies. Some specialize in one process, while others manage multiple.

However, like in any industry, the number of people involved in the eyewear sector is decreasing. It peaked some 30 to 40 years ago, with around 20,000 people working in eyewear at the time. With a similar population back then, it seemed one in three people was involved in eyewear work.

Due to factory bankruptcies or production base relocations overseas, the number has dwindled to about one-third of its peak.

Creating Systems to Encourage Aspiring Artisans

You mentioned a decline in workforce. What do you think are the reasons?

There are various backgrounds, but it seems that, in Sabae City, the lack of successors is an issue. Manufacturing happens in dim settings, with flying shavings, making it an environment often described as "three Ds": difficult, dirty, and dangerous. Young people are hesitant to enter such environments.

Moreover, the Hokuriku region has multiple industries, with textile and semiconductor companies in Fukui Prefecture, where semiconductor factories offer high wages, attracting workers. As such, the eyewear industry struggles with severe labor shortages.

Products usually take three to four months to complete but can now take up to seven to eight months. Eyewear production is divided into stages; if delays happen at one factory, it halts the entire production. Labor shortages, coupled with delayed material supply, are contributing factors.

Some factories cover full apartment costs to lessen the financial burden on workers, but even then, attracting manpower remains challenging. The eyewear industry often finds itself at a weaker manufacturers' stance, and I hope for a Win-Win relationship between manufacturers and wholesalers.

What are your company's future prospects?

We aim to expand NOCHINO OPTICAL stores in China. NOCHINO OPTICAL offers "Asian Fit" eyewear, which we want to introduce globally. By challenging international markets, we can test the potential reach of our products and branding.

Additionally, if financially feasible in the future, I hope to host workshops where people can experience eyewear manufacturing firsthand. Many haven't visited Sabae City or know how glasses are made. I hope to create interest-driven systems that inspire more aspiring artisans.